"Tertulia" short dress, Chloé by Karl Lagerfeld

•  Chloé by Karl Lagerfeld

• Dress without label. Satin label printed on the bottom of the dress, left seam inside along the zipper, black on ivory:"[framed] dorothée bis / 37 to 39 RUE de SEVRES LIT.86.11".
• Ready to wear, Spring-Summer 1966
• Silk muslin lined with Le Besnerais hand painted dark blue on ivory. Viscose crepe (?). Ribbons of loose flesh canvas.
• GAL2019.1.29.1.1-2
• Acquisition Vogue Paris Foundation 2018
• Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

This dress, named "Tertulia" is designed by Karl Lagerfeld, artistic director of the Chloé house from 1966 to 1988, then from 1992 to 1997. The abstract hand-painted motifs meet the designer's personal tastes for the Arts Deco period.

This model, from Karl Lagefeld's very first collection for Chloé, notably in Marie Claire (July 1, 1966), Elle (1966) and Vogue (March 1978). It also exists in a long version in several different colours, such as orange, published in the magazine Vogue (January 1966).

However, this model is not labelled "Chloé" but "Dorothée Bis". Indeed, it was common for the shops that sold the models to change the original brand for their own. Dorothée Bis, a famous brand created in 1962 by Jacqueline and Elie Jacobson, a pioneer in ready-to-wear, sold Chloé models and other designers at the time before launching her own models.

Notice's author : Alexandre Samson